Volvo 850 Rear Speaker Crossover Capacitor Replacement

If you are missing treble or have popping or rattling in the rear door speaker, chances are the crossover capacitor for the tweeter has failed.

Time:

Approx. 10 minutes a speaker

What you’ll need:

  • Capacitor
  • Hot Glue Gun

-Capacitor

Suggested Replacement (PET Film)
3.3uF ±5% 63V AEC-Q200 [15mm lead spacing] B32522C0335J000


Preparation

The First step is to cut out the old capacitor. Be careful doing this and make sure to leave as much of the existing leads as possible.

After removing the rear speakers, in some cases the plastic holding the tweeter may appear cracked or the plastic may begin to crack after reaching a tool in to cut the old capacitor out; later on we will reinforce these cracks with hot glue.

Now after selecting the new capacitor the pins need to be bent so that they can be soldered onto the existing leads of the tweeter.

At this point, I tried holding the capacitor with helping hands but that did not allow enough room to get the soldering iron in. I found it best to hold the capacitor with my left hand and the soldering iron with my right hand. I simply tacked one of the leads (left photo) then moved on to the other lead. After the capacitor was in place, I cleaned up the solder.


Lastly, I hot glued all around the tweeter housing. I also glued in the capacitor and its soldered leads to protect them from vibration.

Volvo 850 Switch Illumination LED Conversion

This tutorial shows how to replace the incandescent bulbs inside Volvo 850 switches with LEDs. This is applicable for all normal switches, the info switch, and the headlight switch.

Time:

Approx. 10 minutes a switch

What you’ll need:

  • Jewelers flat blade screwdrivers (the more the better)
  • Warm white LED (5mm, Flat)
  • Resistor (1.24K Ω) 1/4 watt [Calculated below for match]
  • Hot Glue Gun
  • Dielectric Grease (optional)
  • Helping Hands Soldering Aid (optional)

LED specs

EDGELEC 100pcs 5mm Warm White LED Lights Emitting Diodes DC 3V Flat Lens 29mm Lead Frame + 100pcs Resistors (for DC 6-12V) Included, Bright Bulb Lamp

Product Features: Warm White Lights / 5mm Flat Clear Lens Lens / 29mm Long Lead / DC 3.0V-3.2V (IF=20mA) / 0.06 Watts / Wavelength 2000K-3500K / 60° Viewing Angle

– Choosing a resistor value

This step involves powering a non-LED switch on the bench from 12V and using another switch with the bulb removed from it so you can poke a LED through the back of it.

Pin 2 on the switch is 12V and Pin 5 is GND. These pin numbers are written next to the pins on the back of the switch.

Hook the LED up to a constant current power supply set at 12V so that you can dial in the appropriate current level so the LEDs match the lamps in the rest of the car. Make sure not to violate the maximum current of the LED!

Now with the LED on, take down the voltage that you read on the power supply (this is your LED forward voltage).

[ 12V – (LED FORWARD VOLTAGE) ] / Current (A) = Resistance (Ω)

For this tutorial, I will be using 1.24K Ω as a resistor value.


Preparation

Start by opening up the switch by prying the tabs on all corners of the switch carefully and separating the face switch from the body (not necessary for headlight switch).

For the regular style switches it may be easier to solder the resistor to one leg of the LED (anode or positive side is used for this tutorial). Keep track which side of the LED has a flat spot on it (this is the negative side of the LED).

Regular Switch

Insert the LED into the switch. All you need to do is get the LED to be roughly aimed forward. The leg without the resistor can be soldered through a hole in the switch. The resistor can go through the “bulb hole”. Make sure the LED polarity matches the pictures below or there will be no light. You also want to make sure the resistor and LED leads don’t short out with how they are situated.

Now you can optionally clean the contacts and apply a dab of dielectric grease to protect the contacts before snapping the switch back together.

At this point the resistor is still hanging out the back. The simplest solution is to use some hot glue deep in the bulb hole to keep the LED and LED leads from moving. You can also use it to coat any bit of the resistor or resistor leads still sticking out the back.

Info Switch

Once you get the switch open, to access the bulb, you must cut a bit of the white backing plastic.

I found it easier to solder the negative lead of the LED to the GND pad of the switch before soldering the resistor to the 12V leg.

You basically orient the LED as shown below. You may need to chop off a bit more white plastic. Make sure not to accidentally short any leads out.

The last step is to encase the LED and leads in hot glue. You can now optionally clean the tracks for the info switch on the front side of the PCB before reassembly.

Headlight Switch

It is not necessary to open the headlight switch to install LEDs.

It was easy to use some helping hands to hold one leg of the LED to help solder the other bent leg of the LED. The LED cathode is soldered to the GND side.

You can use some helping hands to help hold the resistors for soldering.

Make sure none of the leads are shorted. As a final step. I coat the back of the LED and resistor to avoid accidental shorts and vibration.

Volvo 850 Electric Climate Control Illumination LED Conversion

If you own a Volvo 850, sooner or later the bulbs in your Electric Climate Control unit will fail. This is very common as Incandescent bulbs are more susceptible to failure than LEDs; the filament can break from vibration or age. This tutorial will cover how to remove your ECC unit, how to replace the bulbs, and how to test your ECC unit on the bench.

Time
Approx. 30 minutes

Parts & Tools 
3x   Warm White 74 LEDs (warm matches the look of the bulbs)
1x   Phillips Screw Driver
1x   12 Volt Power Source with alligator clips (for bench testing the LEDs)

Step 1: Remove Climate Control unit

To remove the climate control unit the radio must be removed. First pop out the 2 tabs on each side.

MAKE SURE YOU CAN FIND YOUR RADIO CODE BEFORE DISCONNECTING THE POWER TO YOUR RADIO OR IT WILL NOT WORK

Then pull the radio out and disconnect the connectors plugged into the rear.

Pull the climate control unit out (It just slides out) the front and disconnect the 3 connectors on the rear.

Step 2: Expose the main circuit board

volvoccmainboard

Remove all of the screws on the case and pull up to expose the main circuit board.

Step 3: Find test points

An LED or Light Emitting Diode only allows current to flow in one direction. If you hook an LED in reverse it will not light.

volvocccasegnd

In order to test the LEDs to verify that they are plugged in correctly we will need to power the climate control as if it was in the car. We can assume the case is grounded, but we need to find the 12 Volt connection point to power the LEDs.

volvoccilluminationtest

I was able to locate a test point on the board where the night illumination signal comes in from the connector on the rear by tracing a schematic for the wiring to the climate control unit. I suggest marking the pin after you have found it for sure by scoring the solder mask slightly with a paper clip.

Step 4: Test the lights

Verify that the negative end of the power supply is connected to the case. Then power up the power supply and set it to 12 Volts DC. Tap the positive end to the test point and the bulbs should illuminate.

BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO TOUCH THE OTHER PINS. AND TO ONLY USE 12 VOLTS NOTHING MORE. YOU CAN DESTROY YOUR CLIMATE CONTROL UNIT

Step 5: Swap out one bulb at a time with and LED and test

volvoccleds

I prefer to start with the failed bulb first.

volvoccledsreplaced

Twist the bulb holder and pull out. Replace the bulb with an LED, and if it does not illuminate, flip the bulb 180 degrees. Make sure the new LEDs are contacting the pins of the bulb holder well.

Repeat this process until all bulbs are changed.

Step 6: Reassemble

volvoccfinaltest

Once everything is working correctly you can reassemble and replace the unit back into the car!

[1997 Volvo 850] Door Panel Refurbishment

After 24 years in the sun, the interior was in rough shape. It became clear that no reasonable amount of cleaning could rejuvenate the panels. Also, as is typical with P80 Volvos, the tan carpeting over a few years becomes pink.

I thought I would clean & repair the vinyl (where necessary) and then spray it with vinyl dye. I would need to find a way to get creative for the lower part of the door because no-one wants that terrible pink carpet on a nice new door.

Prep / Cleaning

My initial prep work for the top of the panel was to give a good soapy water clean and then use isopropyl alcohol to make sure the surface was good for dye adhesion.

The lower carpeted part, I scrubbed and cleaned with soap and it was clean but still didn’t look good.

Upper Panel coating experiment

With a separate set of panels, I wanted to see what the door panel was made of and if I could get creative and give it a fiberglass or carbon fiber coating or just paint it with an epoxy. The structural material seems to be a almost a pressure treated wood fiber board. It did not sand well and It was hard to get anything to adhere to it. I decided the best course of action was to just keep the vinyl wrapping.

Upper Panel Vinyl dye color trial

I wanted an earth color for the door panels. I chose SEM 15323, Palomino, Color Coat, Vinyl Paint hoping it would be more orangey (to match the new seats). It turned out to be far more olive/green than I expected from photos online.

Upper Panel Vinyl dye painting

I decided on SEM 15033, Saddle Tan, Color Coat, Vinyl Paint which looks great.

Lower Panel repair & reinforcement

The lower part of the door panel was made out of plastic and given the age of the panel there were many cracks and the mounting holes were mostly broken.

The rear side of the lower panel was sanded and fiberglass re-enforced. After the carpet was peeled off, the residual carpet adhesive was removed with a razor blade and water. At times, a heat gun and a steam cleaner (hot water) seemed to assist in the adhesive removal.

After adhesive removal, on the panel face, plastic molding holes were filled with epoxy and the panels received a full sand with 120 grit sand paper.

Lower panel paint

To replace the carpeting I decided to use PlastiKote 264 Black Truck Bed Liner. Which gave a high-contrast and rugged look and feel to the doors.

Door panel inserts

The existing inserts were comprised of leather stretched and stapled over a fiber card. As an upgrade, I found a slightly more rigid 1/8″ PVC sheet and used this with some Black Quilted Vinyl that had a 3/8″ foam backing.

Final

[1997 Volvo 850] Recirculation motor replacement

The recirculation motor was making a terrible grinding sound when I would turn on the car. The shaft connecting the motor to the damper was broken and the motor was still operating/grinding.


After acquiring a new motor from the junkyard, I pried up all sides of the cover on the case and cleaned the carbon tracks that detect the positioning of the output gear/peg with Isopropyl alcohol. I lubed the gearset with white lithium grease and applied a small amount of dielectric grease to the carbon track. more to lubricate than to protect against oxidization. I snapped the cover back on and reinstalled the motor.

Honeywell Lyric T5 Thermostat Repair

I purchased a Honeywell T5 Smart thermostat for suspiciously little money on eBay. It was advertised as tested working.

When I plugged the thermostat in, it did not power up. So I opened it up on the bench. Putting 24 VAC across terminals R & C provided no current flow. When I put power across RC & C about 2 watts were being consumed continuously.

While powering RC & C I probed parts of the PCB to see where the power was going. After checking several areas I noticed the chip U5 that was labeled TI 5416A. I took this to mean it was TI TPS54160A a 1.5A 60V step down DC/DC converter. Using the datasheet, I determined the chip was getting an input voltage but was not providing an output voltage.

When I probed components near U5 (related to the datasheet typical application circuit), I found that D4 was shorted in both directions. I desoldered it and replaced it with a 1N5819. When I applied power to R & C, I still got nothing. Applying power to RC & C made the device power up.

Normally a thermostat should accept power on R & C; this thermostat was not, but if it would take it on RC & C. This was acceptable for me given my specific heating only application.

I wrapped the diode in polyamide tape and sealed the case. I provided 24VAC power across RC & C and put the heating circuit I wanted to control across R & W.

E-waste repaired to working order for 10 cents worth of parts. It feels good!